Bhadra Tiger Reserve - April 2011

The night before : Got-up around 3am just to check whether it was still raining. Little drizzle it was then which gave me and my bullet some ray of hope that it will be clear by morning and we will be able to go ahead with our ride to Bhadra. Somehow luck was not on our side. It was raining heavy at 6am and was virtually impossible to go by bike.

There was no way I was going to miss this trip since I had managed to get permission from forest officials to stay inside Bhadra forest in IB.

Day 1 : Not so happy with rains I took my bullet saddle bags and kept it in car with just 3-4 litres of fuel in it :-) . Reached Charnjit’s place on time but by the time he was on road we were almost 30mins late. Got the fuel tank filled at nearest petrol station. Despite of being late and by the time we reached Anirban’s house he was still in shower. Wonder if he has taken some vow never to be on time. This time he was again more than 60mins late.

Charnjit, Wife and kid were in his car and Pramukh, Anirban and his wife Pallashi in mine. Route which we decided to take was

Bangalore – Tumkur – Gubbi – Tiptur - Arsikere – Kadur – Birur – Tarikere – Lakkavalli

(Take Shimoga bypass before you hit Tumkur Town, else it will be almost 15kms extra drive and that too through crowded roads of Tumkur town. Further take left from Tarikere towards Lakkavalli. This is just after the town ends. There is Jungle Lodges Board there pointing towards left.)

Before Tumkur there is one Kamat hotel on the left side of road. We stopped there for b’fast. It was 15-20 mins struggle to get hold of a table. And another 5-10 mins of struggle to get hold of some waiter to take our order :-)

It was so unfortunate that just after we crossed Kamat, it was bright and sunny. I missed my bullet like anything.

We missed to take the bypass and took the route via Tumkur town. That’s when Charnjit tried flaunting his new GPS and it came up with some absolutely weird route with some 100+kms extra drive. Anirban passed him some “beeped comments” and he silently switched it off. We stopped next at Arsikere for some chai.

We reached Jungle Lodges around 1400hrs. Charnjit, Anirban and their families had bookings in JLR River Tern. Pramukh was to join me in IB. I tried calling forest officials to inform that I have reached and how and when do we go to the IB inside forest. The phone no.s were coming busy. We had our lunch in JLR and I kept trying on phone. It was almost 2 hours and that’s when I started considering other options to stay and spend night. We checked University guest house and that too was completely booked. The last option was tent which I was carrying in my saddle bag. I was not very comfortable with the idea of putting up tent in one of the hills and spending night since the clouds were dark and thick.

The jeep safari of JLR was to leave at 1600hrs and Charnjit was not interested to go. So it was like jackpot for me and Pramukh. We took seats blocked for them.

We were lucky to see Crested Serpant Eagle, Elephant, Monitor Lizard, Spotted Deers, Dancing Peacock, Rocket Tail Drongo and Giant Malabar Squirrel. It was the first time in my life that I saw monitor lizard and peacock dancing. Even though I was not able to capture monitor lizard but I was completely thrilled during that safari.

By the time we reached back JLR it was almost 1800hrs. Luckily I could reach the forest officials and our accommodation was confirmed. Me and Pramukh, we purchased some wheat flour, raw vegetables and onions for dinner and b’fast next day. We took the least of luggage required with us and left rest everything in car.

In forest jeep we started around 1900hrs. It was completely dark inside the forest and the only light was of jeep’s head lights. I just can’t describe what an awesome ride and feel it was through the forest at that hour. On the way we saw a huge Porcupine and Owl. The porcupine would have been easily more than 20 pounds.

The IB is 28kms inside forest and the ride was just super. We reached IB after almost and hour. I was so enthralled the moment we reached there. IB was a small hut again as was in Parambikulam with no electricity, beds etc. Beauty of the place was that it faced backwaters in front and left and thick forest on right and back. Being 28kms inside forest, though it was little scary but the feel was awesome.

There were 2 caretakers in IB. They served us black tea and got busy in preparing dinner. The only source of drinking water was from the reservoir back waters in the front. I must again admit that it was not very clean J Though we were carrying some rum with us but were so tired and hungry that we decided the other way. They cooked some rice and sambar which was indeed quite spicy for me. I could hold that inside only for few minutes and was rushing inside forest with a mug of water soon J.

There was only one room inside IB. The place to sleep was elevated by about 3 feets over thick bamboo pillars with lots of thin bamboo placed horizontally over it. It was a test for our spines that night. This was to avoid thick large Red and Black Ants on the ground. Pramukh felt like having a drink after dinner and obviously I joined him too. We went near the backwaters though it was not a very good idea. It was just AWESOME. I was quite tired of all the driving and left to sleep. All I remember is that it rained heavily that night. My instincts were right about not staying in tent for the night.



That was our bed :-)

 




Right next to back waters in the night

 Day 2 : It was 0545hrs in morning when one of the caretakers was frantically trying to wake me up. All I could understand is that he was trying to tell that some wild animal/s were near the IB and I must join him to see them. Tried waking up Pramukh but he was in deep sleep. I rushed bare foot without my boots on knowing that the entire area is covered by big red ants.

What a view it was to see some 10-12 elephants near to the IB grazing. I immediately rushed back to the room to get my camera and even wake up Pramukh. This time I ensured that I put my boots on J

Hard luck. Elephants moved into the trees and were no more visible. But the view was amazing with clouds all over the mountains and plains. It was as if they too were grazing over those beautiful green grass lands.

We freshened up and had breakfast. One of the caretakers took us for a trek inside forest. On the way we saw wild boars, deers, pelicans, storks, egrets and kites. We were quite unlucky not to spot any wild dogs, tigers or leopards which are common in that area. After about 3 kms of trek we returned to our IB all sweating.

I was somehow not able to control the thought of jumping into the back waters. Our care taker did warn us about the Crocodiles inside but then asked us to be cautious and quick.

What a feel it was. Nice cold water with continuous fear of crocs inside as well :-) . It was certainly  refreshing and we made it quick.

We had lunch in the IB itself and then the forest office jeep picked us. On the way back we saw some sambar deers, monitor lizard, wild boars, spotted deers egrets and storks.

We went to JLR directly around 1545hrs and met Anirban and Pallashi. JLR Boat safari was to start at 1630hrs and we still had almost 45 mins with us. Not so satisfied with our morning nature call inside jungle, we didn’t miss the chance to use the western closet in JLR which was certainly nice that time :-)

Charnjit too joined us and the boat safari was superb. Boat driver took us near the island where River Terns had laid their eggs and were busy hatching. It was so nice to see these beautiful birds all around the island. Most of them were actually disturbed by the near presence of boat and flew to a safer distance.


River Terns hatching their eggs



River Tern's Egg



Further we saw brahminy kites, little and great cormorants, Siberian white ibis, spot bill ducks, wild boars, spotted deers and egrets.


Siberian White Ibis



Once back in JLR after safari went to meet the forest officials to thank them and to check if me and Pramukh could get accommodation in Lakkavalli IB to spend the night. We were indeed lucky. We decided to have a drink and dinner at JLR and then go to IB to sleep.

Scotch on the rocks was indeed quite nice for all the muscles which were aching. Anirban was scared of Pallashi that day to even have a glass of wine :-) . We finished our dinner and went to the IB. Room was fine and we were so tired that within 10 mins we were snoring hard.

But something funny had to happen. Around mid-night the care taker started knocking our door frantically. I thought may be out of courtesy he would have come to give us some mosquito coil. We were told to vacate the room since somebody had booked it about 15 days back :-)) The 2 of us half asleep in our trunks took our luggage and spent the night in caretakers room. I must appreciate they were quite generous to allow us to sleep in their room.

But that was not all. Bedbugs and ants really killed my sleep. When I got up in morning, there were stains of blood almost everywhere on the white bedsheet. Pramukh too had a companion during night. There was one frog which was right next to his pillow croaking all the night :-)

Day 3 : The bathroom was so dirty that both of us decided against having bath there (poor Anirban and Pallashi, since they were in the same car while driving back to Bangalore).

The IB being near to the reservoir, we walked towards the water in morning around 0730hrs. The view was awesome. There was this island very near where hundreds of river terns were hatching.



Hundreds of River Terns had laid eggs on this island

 One thing which I would like to mention here is that while we were walking on the rocks, it was so dis-heartening to see all the broken beer/ liquor bottles, plastic plates etc. I don’t understand what pleasure people get by littering. What takes to just carry back the waste and dispose it off to the nearest waste disposal area.

Anyways we checked out from IB and reached JLR at about 0830hrs. Had breakfast there and then started for Bangalore around 1000hrs. We stopped at some dhaba on the way for chai and then continued with our drive. We all were hungry but Charnjit instead chose not to stop for lunch and continue to drive towards Bangalore. Pramukh knew some hotel in Bangalore and we had awesome chicken there :-)

While Charnjit decided not to stop for lunch with us, he again switched on his GPS while we were reaching Tumkur. Not to mention he again got on to wrong roads and reached home almost the same time (without lunch) :-)

Finally reached home around 1630hrs.